Wednesday, September 17, 2014

16/09/2014 - Kotor

Second time visiting Montenegro. Last visit was in 2012, with my camera stolen in the capital - Podgorica (former Titograd), no pictures left. Montenegro, in Serbo-Croatian: Crna Gora (Lit. black mountain) is a very new country, founded in 2006. It used to be part of the Jugoslavija kingdom, then in Serbia-Montenegro federation, finally became an independent country. The county borders Croatia in the north, Serbia in the north-east, Albania in the south, and Kosovo in the east. Tourists visiting Dubrovnik will often make a day trip visiting Montenegro, the town Kotor and the city Budva. Official language here is Serbian with Ijekavica accent (some call it Montenegrin, since Bosnian call their language Bosnian, the Croats call their language Croatian, Serbian for the Serbs, so people from Montenegro call it Montenegrin, to distinguish from the others.)
2012年第一次來黑山,相機在首都 Podgorica 被偷去,一張照片都沒有剩下。黑山(蒙特內卡羅)是個很新的國家,二零零六年才獨立於塞黑聯邦前身亦為南斯拉夫一部分,國家北面與克羅地亞接壤,東北為塞爾維亞,南面是阿爾巴尼亞,東面是科索沃。到杜布洛夫尼克的遊客部分會選擇參加黑山一天團遊覽Kotor及Budva。黑山官方語言是塞爾維亞語,但自獨立後,與其他前南斯拉夫國家一樣,有部分人將自己的語言稱為黑山語。


Montenegro is not a member of European Union, and not in the Schengen zone, but Euro is official currency here. Compare to the independence of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the independence of Montenegro seemed to be more peaceful, as major ethnic group in Montenegro, is Serbs as well. 
黑山並非歐盟成員國,亦不在申根區,但歐元是法定貨幣。與克羅地亞及波赫獨立於南斯拉夫比較,黑山的獨立和平許多,因黑山主要民族為塞爾維亞族,沒有了民族紛爭。

Crkva Svetog Nikole (Church of Sveti Nikola, lit. Saint Nikola)


Trg od Oružja, Square of weapons,with the symbolic clock tower, the consulate of Croatia is right next to the square. Consider the close relationship of Montenegro and Serbia, I found the location of the Croatian consulate mystery.





From Dubrovnik, there are daily 4-5 buses, to Herceg Novi or Kotor. Price was 126Kn to Herceg Novi and extra 5 Euro to Kotor. When looking on the map, the driving route seems to be ridiculous, buses go all the way surrounding the bay, instead of the car-ferry from Kamenari-Lepetane. Scenery could be lovely, nothing to could be seen at 21.--. I took the bus at 20.30 and arrived at Kotor at around 23.--.
杜布洛夫尼克出發,每天有四至五班巴士,到Herceg Novi 或Kotor參考價格是126Kn 到Herceg Novi額外5歐元到Kotor晚上八時半出發的巴士,到達Kotor時約十一時半。

Main entrance to the old town, Vrata od mora (Door from the sea or Door of the sea?) , a communist star can be found above the main arch. 

Crkva Svetog Luke (Lit. Church of Saint Luka), the church was built as a catholic church but later on it has been switched to an Orthodox church. 

The hostel I stayed for the first night was a bit too close to the crowd, church bells and loudly talking tourists can be annoying to a sleeping me. I switched back to the hostel which I have stayed at 2 years ago, but not a room on the top floor of the building, with a wooden roof, and one a/c for the entire room with 10 beds, windows not fully close-able like in 2012. This is the view from the common room.
旅館客廳外望景觀

I was, as usual, cooking shitty food in the hostel, salami with cheap pasta, such low-quality food has drawn the attention from a group of Brazilian - David and friends, we started chating and went together to the fortress (Tvrđava svetog Ivana, Fortress of saint Ivan), together with two Austrian girls - Mali and Antonia, I met last night in the previous hostel. 
我窮,所以要劣食,每次下煮都引來其他住客,剛好這次遇到了一組巴西人,對比他們的美食,更顯得我的肉腸意粉寒酸。我們聊起來,並相約前往炮台,同行的還有有兩個女孩。


We were introduced a free-of-charge footpath to the castle, tourists will usually go to the castle from the old town by paying 3 Euro entry fee, as they all follow the official maps and official signs, which leads you to pay. Smart tourists can avoid paying anything. I don't want to disclose the no-cost way here as the authority may block the road, just show the picture above to the hostel staff if you are in Kotor, everyone knows the free path.
旅館職員教我們走另一路,可省回登城牆的3歐元路費,上圖左邊是免費路徑的入口。



The view from the path, bay of Kotor. 

An abondoned church is in the middle of the path, some goats live there, do not bother them, let them sleep. ;)
中途會經過一廢棄教堂,別阻礙山羊睡覺 ;)


After passing through this hole, the main trail is there. 
穿過了此洞,就是大路




A group of Ukrainian popped out from somewhere, holding their flag and singing the national anthem. :O

David and friends went further to the top of the hill for camping, with their really nice food prepared in the hostel. Paprika and Antonia chose to sit in front of this panoramic view to write postcards, I did the same thing, but just forgot to send them to the post. :( I guess having a book on hand and spend a quite afternoon further away from the tourists could be enjoyable, of course with this view. 


Special thanks to Mali and Antonia for assistance.



Sun was almost hiding, time to walk back to the hostel and cook some shitty food again, while Mali the paprika and Antonia was still spending their time on postcards. 

And this is the way getting back to the old town. Of course they won't charge me if I get back to the old town. :)
沿大路回古城




Vrata od Gurdića, the southern entrance to the old town, getting to the old town from the bus station will probably pass through this gate. From the bus station, get down to the sea side, turn right at the roundabout, go straight towards the post office and supermarket side, here you go. 
南城門,從巴士站進古城會經過此門,離開巴士站向海走,迴旋處轉右,一直走經過郵局及超市便到此門。

From Budva, buses run every 15-30 minutes, ticket price approx. 3 Euro, varies from companies. Some of the worse one has bus fleet without air-conditioner, which can be painful in summer time.
來往巴士每十五至三十分鐘一班,票價3歐元。有些公司會用不開空調的空調巴士載客,且窗開不了,像焗桑拿般。

Sveti Nikola church at night, basically all tourists gone after 22.00, most of them come here as a day trip from Dubrovnik, the others went for sleeping, with consideration of their age! Party and clubbing animals would have chosen to go Budva to have fun.
晚上十時,遊客要睡的睡了,一天團的回了克羅地亞,要夜生活的去Budva了,Kotor餘下的只有寧靜。


Trg od Oružja at night, the chairs at the cafe was not chained and locked! I borrowed one of them to be my tripod. Sorry but without authorisation. :(



Outer wall of the old town, the lights spotted on the wall on the hill, looks like a fire dragon. 
打了燈的城牆,像倚在山上的火龍

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