Showing posts with label Croatia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Croatia. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

19/08/2014 - The native Croatian town - Šibenik

Šibenik, 90km from Split, a historical town on Dalmacija, unlike other towns along the coast, the foundation of Šibenik has no any connections with the Romans and Greeks, it was totally developed by the Croats, but it makes no exception for it to be occupied by the Kingdom of Venice, Byzantium, Austria-Hungary Empire in history. During the Croatian War of independence from Jugoslavia in September 1991, the town was deeply attacked by the Jugoslav army including the iconic architecture Cathedral of St. James, the battle is also referred as September battles or Battle of Šibenik (Bitka za Šibenik), while the Croats and the Serbs has moved their battlefield northwards to Zadar until early October. Most of the tourist will visit Split because of the Diocletian's palace or interchange for ferries to numerous islands, or Zadar after visiting the Plitvička jezera national park, while Šibenik is also worth visiting. One thing worth mentioning is, Šibenik is the first town in the world with alternating current-powered street lights, this technology was introduced in 1895. Enjoy Dalmacija with less tourist and a native Croatian town. 

希貝尼克 (Šibenik),距離Split 90公里,是達爾馬提亞地區的一個古城,與其他區內古城不同,城的建立與羅馬人及希臘人無關,此城是由克羅地亞人自行建立的,但結果跟其他區內沿海城市一樣,先後被威尼斯王國,拜占庭及奧洶帝國佔領。1991年9月,克羅地亞獨立戰爭中,Šibenik遭猛烈轟炸,包括著名教堂 Cathedral of St. James,約一周後,南斯拉夫軍隊與克羅地亞保衛隊的交戰地北移至扎達爾。特別一提,Šibenik 是全球首個建構交流電路燈系統的城市,早在1895年啟用。


Most of the paths in the old town are leading to the St. Michael's Fortres (Tvrđava Svetog Mihovila), originally it's functioned as a lookout of the Šibenik bay and the mouth of the Krka river, and also as a refuge for the surrounding areas. The fortress was first meniotned in 12th century. This place, in 2012, has be revitalised as an open-air stage, the project was completed in July 2014, one month before my visit. 


The geographic location of the town of Šibenik is protected by two peninsulas (or any other better adjectives?) so get to the town by sea, the narrow channel has to be passed through, which appears to be a natural shelter for the town for being attacked.  Other than the St. Michael's Fortress, there is another fortress - Sveti Nikole (Saint Nikola) built at the mouth of the channel for the protection of the bay and the town.





The town hall in Šibenik


Cathedral of St. James (Katedrala svetog Jakova), was rehabilitated after the war of Independence.



This is the major market close to the bus stop, at 14.00. 


Saturday, August 16, 2014

15/08/2014 - Plavo nebo i more u Splitu

晴空萬里的國度,第二天太陽出來了,哇個天藍得好緊要。抱著非常緊慎既用錢方式,我決定:行出市中心!不過,溫度計顯示當日溫度是46度,或許出錯,但35度肯定都有。
To save every single buck, I decided to walk 3.5km from the hostel to the downtown under (I guess) 35'c (although 46'c shown)
我有個非常得意的興趣,就是非常鐘情外貌有共產味的住宅樓宇,因為此等樓宇令我聯想到小時候居住的黃竹坑邨
I have a really special interest, visiting communist apartment blocks, when I was a kid I was living in public housing estate in Hong Kong, and the buildings for public housing are always looking so similar to communist blocks.







這些非常共產的汽車到處都是,很想買一架。
Communist cars everywhere, wish to own one. 


一步一步靠近市中心,愈來愈多熟悉的面孔,與前兩年比較,克國開始受到東方遊客注目,但亦尤以日韓人居多。Split為克國第三大城,全國第二大港口,及達爾馬提亞區第一大城,客輪及汽車輪船連繫多個離島。因為當時還沒有找到兌換店,上次剩下的只夠買一條香蕉及一枝水,就在這美景下吃蕉了。
About an hour walk without maps between the communist blocks, almost arrived at the Centre. Split is the third largest city in Croatia, well, largest in Dalmacija, ferry services connecting the continental and islands. Before I found an exchange office, affordable food was bananas only, and I enjoyed my bananas in front of this sceneric view.

到此一遊照少不得的
Selfies is a must huh?


斯普利特每年日照時間長達2,800小時,因此有地中海之花的稱號。
2,800 hours of sunshine per year in Split. 

很多運動或音樂優秀的克國人都是來自Split。屬古羅馬帝國的一部份,Split保留了非常完整的羅馬式建築,亦因位處地中海旁,窗多為綠色,配以麻石磚牆及紅磚屋頂,視覺效果非常和諧。
Split is a cradle of outstanding athletes and singers. The oldtown was bulit during the Roman empire, architectures were well preserved, green window frames, red roofs, blue sky, harmony match.

城內的橫街窄巷,鋪在地上的石,被多年來旅客的腳步,磨得非常光滑。
Stones are really smooth on the floor. 



共和廣場,歌唱表演專用場地
The republic square, place for performances 

Riva 海濱長廊
Riva harbour promenade


古城中心為戴克里先宮 (Diocletian's Palace) ,約有一千七百多年歷史,本宮原用作戴克里先皇退休後住宿之用,以前圍牆緊貼亞得里亞海,現在圍牆外為填海建成的海濱長廊,地下該層現為市集,旁邊為斯普利特主教堂(Cathedral of Saint Duje),碰巧當天為聖母升天日,教堂都有舉行宗教儀式。
Centre of the old town is Diocletian's Palace, built around 1,700 years ago, it was planned to be used as the palace for Diocletian after his retirement. In the past, the city wall was just next to the sea coast, due to reclamation, Riva harbour promenade is now in front of the palace. The basement of the palace is now used as a Bazaar, next to the palace is Cathedral of Saint Duje. 




古城要走完其實只須約一至兩小時,但到處逛逛待過半天的人彼彼皆是。如果七月來的話,會碰到Split Festival,本地人會穿起古羅馬服飾,並在城內較大的廣場擺攤。
1-2 hours is enough for the old town, 5-6 hours for enjoying the atmosphere and sunshine. Split festival takes place in July, people dress up with roman clothings, bazaar in squares in the old town as well.

今次來只有再遇到這手通飛天韆鞦。



16-17/08/2014 - Otok Hvar


Next destination after Split- Hvar. Two major ferry piera on the island Hvar, one is in Stari Grad (Old city), another one is in Hvar town. High demand in August, tickets for ferry directly going to Hvar town has to be booked 3 days prior then departure, so most of the tourists have to choose the alternative option- Ferries to Stari Grad, and change for buses towards Hvar. 2 hour ferry ride from Split to Hvar, 47kn one way, company Jadrolinija, which operates major car ferry routes in Croatia, timetables and price lists can be found in the link below. 

Split之後的下一個目的地,是克國其中一個較熱門的島,Hvar。島上有兩個主要的碼頭,一個在Stari Grad,而另一個則在Hvar城,因為八月當時為旅遊旺季,船票不易購得(最少提前三個工作天才能購得直接前往Hvar的客輪票,費用不詳),因此較多的旅客是選乘往Stari Grad的汽車渡輪,然後才轉乘巴士往Hvar,船程約2小時,船費為47kn,克羅地亞大部份渡輪服務由渡輪公司Jadrolinija營運,時間表及價錢請參閱www.Jadrolinija.hr。汽車渡輪我即場購票亦有空位,但汽車渡輪不設乘客劃位,有空位就可以坐,不然站夠兩小時,到處拍照或是坐地下都沒有人理你的。


Accommodation in Hvar was a bit pricey at that time, 35Eur for a bed in hostel, quality below average according to the comments posted. To protect my wallet and stay away from major tourist, I chose to stay in Stari grad, 25Eur for a bed.
在Hvar城區的住宿頗貴,床位達35歐元一晚,且質素不敢恭維,到處都是遊客,為了有更多時間感受小島風情,且有限的預算,及遠離主流旅客,我最後選擇留宿於Stari Grad,床位每晚25歐元。

Bus service on Island Hvar mostly coordinate with ferry schedules, no worries, you will be able to find a bus towards the town, walking to Stari grad - 30 minutes without spending any kunas.
島上巴士的時間多配合船期,下船後完全不必擔心沒有巴士接駁,但預算低得恐怖,沒有閒錢花在巴士上,決定由碼頭步行前往Stari Grad。

Big backpack stored in hostel in Split, no heavy bags is a plus, leisure walk to Stari grad. 
步程30分鐘,因為大背囊已存放於Split的旅館內,慢慢行去Stari grad都是Okay的。

1 good news and 1 bad news; hostel I booked was overbooked, I was transferred to another apartment, same price but private room, bad thing is without wifi.
步行到旅館時就收到了一個不幸的消息,原本預訂的那家旅館已經住滿了,東主只好將我送到他朋友家的民宿,房費一樣25歐元,但換成有自己一個私人房間,但代價就是沒有Wifi。

View from the room
房間外景觀

Room 
房間內部




Grilled foods smelling nice :D

Fireworks in the evening, no good photos shot, nothing to be posted. 
夜晚海旁放煙花,不過沒拍出好相,不貼了。

Morning in Stari grad, nice to walk without massive amount of tourists


Never think about walking from Stari grad to Hvar unless you like to walk with the cars for more than 3 hours, bus ride was 30 minutes, 37 kuna.
如果想從Stari Grad碼頭步行到Hvar,不用想了,還是搭巴士啦,坐車都花去了差不多半小時,Stari grad到Hvar的車費是37kn。



This is the staircase from the main square towards the fortress in Hvar.
從中心廣場前往炮台的樓梯。


View from the fortress, the beauty of the Mediterranean sea. Hvar is actually the city with the longest sunshine hours per year in Croatia, some articles mentioned that if a guest reserved a room in Hvar and he or she could not enjoy a sunny day at last, a partial refund would be given. It was 30'c on 18 Aug, and temperature may reach 37-40'c in mid July. For your reference, entrance fee to the fortress is 30kn, I went there in 2012 the first time so didn't go in 2014, picture below was taken right outside the fortress, more or less the same view you could get inside the fortress.
炮台景觀,地中海典型景色,不過真係好靚。Hvar是全克羅地亞境內全年日照時間最長的地方,聞說如預訂酒店抵埗時天氣欠佳可以折扣優惠入住。當天氣溫度30'c,七月中氣溫能攀上40'c。

Tropical plants can be found on the island because of the climate.
熱帶植物蹤影。

Town centre, Saint Steven square
Centar grada - Trg sveti Stjepana
中心廣場


Sun bathing could be a daily duty for Croats. 


Selfie

Hvar is also famous for lavenders, so lavender products can be found everywhere.
薰衣草在Hvar很有名,到處都是薰衣草商品。


Return bus timetable listed at the bus stop at town Hvar, suggested to return to the pier at around 1700 or you may not be able to catch the last ferry heading back to Split.
回程時間表可參閱Hvar巴士站外的通告,即日來回Hvar島建議約1700回程前往碼頭,否則可能趕不及回Split的船。

Most of the time in Croatia, it happens to be like some old men and ladies promoting their rooms and apartments at the inter-city bus terminal or ferry pier, similar to the situation on outlying islands in Hong Kong, but quality of rooms are not foreseeable and not guaranteed, and rooms may be a bit far from downtown.
在克羅地亞其實大多數情況下,乘搭輪船到碼頭或乘坐跨城巴士到達城際巴士站,都會有一班中年大叔阿姨迎接,問您要不要住宿的地方,跟香港離島的情況什為相似,他們房租價格會時平常旅館的一半,但質素參差,如輕裝上陣,不妨考慮租住,更能感受本地人的生活。


Do you speak Karlovačko ? Advertisment by the famous beer company in Croatia.
Karlovačko是克羅地亞內最有名的啤酒。